OPTIMISM

OPTIMISM

“hopefulness and confidence about the future”

A crochet bandana scarf pattern by

Betty McKnit

This pattern is an adaptation of the Halfway Home on Metro North pattern. It was designed to use one skein of DK Whims Merino Crochet Yarn from Furls Crochet.

Finished Measurement: 29”w by 13” deep before blocking

45” w by 14” deep after blocking.

Skill Level: Intermediate

MATERIALS

Yarn: 196 yards of DK Whims Merino Crochet Yarn

(3 weight)

  • note on substitution: This scarf was blocked to its finished size. Please keep in mind that fiber content affects how much a garment will stretch and open.
  • Upsizing is very easy with this pattern. Please see my notes at Halfway Home on Metro North for more information about changing sizes using the “halfway home” method.

Hook: I

* I highly suggest getting a matching Furls Odyssey hook to work this project for a fully upscale experience of working this special z-twist yarn with a beautiful ergonomic hook.

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ABBREVIATIONS
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
edc = extended double crochet sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
sts = stitches
dec dc2tog over 3 = decrease double crochet 2 together over 3 stitches
dec dc3tog = decrease double crochet 3 together
2dc cable = 2 double crochet cable

SPECIAL STITCHES
edc: yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through one loop on the hook, yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook twice.

dec dc2tog over 3: decrease by yarning over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops, leave the rest of the stitch unworked, sk 1, yarn over, pull up a loop in the next stitch, yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over and pull through all remaining loops. Dec dc2tog over 3 complete.

dec dc3tog: decrease by yarning over, pulling up a loop, pull through two loops in the next three stitches. Complete the decrease by yarning over and pulling through all three loops on the hook.

2dc cable: *sk next st, dc, dc in skipped stitch. Repeat from *

BC6A2820-108D-4570-A753-067F83A2FA58.jpegTHE PATTERN

Row 1: ch 3, edc, dc, edc into first ch
Turn


Row 2: ch 3 (does not count) edc, 2dc into next st, edc
Turn


Row 3: ch3, edc, 2dc into next 2 sts, edc
Turn


Row 4: ch 3, edc, 3 dc into st, dc2tog, 3 dc into next st, edc
Turn


Row 5: ch3, edc, 2 dc into next 2 sts, dec dc 2 tog over 3, 2 dc into next 2 sts, edc

Turn


Row 6: ch 3, edc, 2 dc into next 2 sts, dc until one st before the decrease on the row below, dec dc2tog over 3 sts, (the decrease stitch in the row below should be the skipped stitch) dc until 3 sts before the end of the row, 2 dc into next 2 sts, edc

Turn

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Repeat row 6.

TEXTURE ROWS

Begin adding texture rows as follows:

Texture Row A: Keeping the first and last 3 sts of the row and the center decrease sts in pattern (work the same as you did for regular rows), but replace the dc stitches with dc, ch 1 sk 1. Any extra stitches can be filled in with dc.

Turn

Repeat Row 6.

Turn

Texture  Row B: Keeping the first and last 3 sts of the row and the center decrease sts in pattern (work the same as you did for regular rows), but replace the dc stitches with 2 dc cable. Any extra stitches can be filled in with dc.

Turn

Repeat this sequence, Texture Row A, Row 6, Texture Row B five times, you should have a total of 25 rows from the start of the project.

BEGIN DECREASINGC20DDC3A-9987-46E3-9AF9-FDA18FDCED79.jpeg

You will now begin decreasing on one side of the work with dc2tog at the beginning and end of alternate rows, while maintaining the sequence above of one filet row, one dc row, and one cable row. This will make more sense as you are doing it, but here are specific instructions for you to follow:

 

Decrease Row 1: Ch 3 (does not count) dec dc2tog working into the very first stitch in the row and the one next to it. *[dc, ch 1, sk 1] repeat from * until one stitch before the decrease on the row below (fill in with dc sts if needed), dec dc2tog over 3 sts, (the decrease stitch in the row below should be the skipped stitch) *[dc, ch 1, sk 1] repeat from * until 3 sts before the end of the row, 2 dc into next 2 sts, edc.
Turn

Decrease Row 2: Ch 3, edc, 2 dc into next 2 sts, dc until 1 st before the decrease on the row below, dec dc2tog over 3 sts, (the decrease stitch in the row below should be the skipped stitch) dc until 2 sts before the end of the row, dc2tog.
Turn

Decrease Row 3: Ch 3 (does not count) dec dc2tog working into the very first stitch in the row and the one next to it. 2 dc cable until one stitch before the decrease on the row below (fill in with dc sts if needed), dec dc2tog over 3 sts, (the decrease stitch in the row below should be the skipped stitch) 2 dc cable until 3 sts before the end of the row, 2 dc into next 2 sts, edc.
Turn

Decrease Row 4: Ch 3, edc, 2 dc into next 2 sts, *[dc, ch 1, sk 1] repeat from * until 1 st before the decrease on the row below, dec dc2tog over 3 sts, (the decrease stitch in the row below should be the skipped stitch) *[dc, ch 1, sk 1] repeat from * until 2 sts before the end of the row, dc2tog.8B27AF34-AFE2-495E-A45E-8CA59BBD18D3.jpegTurn

Decrease Row 5: Ch 3 (does not count) dec dc2tog working into the very first stitch in the row and the one next to it. dc until one stitch before the decrease on the row below, dec dc2tog over 3 sts, (the decrease stitch in the row below should be the skipped stitch) dc until 3 sts before the end of the row, 2 dc into next 2 sts, edc.
Turn

Decrease Row 6: Ch 3, edc, 2 dc into next 2 sts, 2 dc cable until 1 st before the decrease on the row below (fill in with dc sts if needed), dec dc2tog over 3 sts, (the decrease stitch in the row below should be the skipped stitch) 2 dc cable  until 2 sts before the end of the row, (fill in with dc sts if needed), dc2tog.

Turn

Repeat Decrease Rows 1-6.

Turn

Row 7: dc2tog, sk 1, dc until 3 sts before the end of the row, 2 dc into next 2 sts, edc.

EDGING

Turn, sc across to center dec. Continue past the decrease (mine isn’t always exactly straight but the border will even things out) by working sc into the sides of the stitches. Treat the dc on the edge like foundation ch sts and work into the dc under two threads of the st leaving one thread below. This makes a much more even edge than working around the stitches. I normally do about 2 sc per dc, but look at your work and adjust your stitch placement to keep the sc evenly spaced.

When you reach the point where you began decreasing, work 3 sc into the side of the dc at the centermost point.

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Continue to sc across the side of the work until you reach the point of the triangle where you started.

Turn.

Working across the sc row you just made, ch 3, sc in the first st. *sk 1, [sc, ch 3, sc] in same st, repeat from * to center point. [sc, ch 3] 3 times, sc all in center sc. repeat from * to last st. ch 5 (creates a buttonhole.

Rotate the work to work down the long side of the triangle. sc across, working into the sides of the dc sts as before.

Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Sew a button near the starting point of the scarf.

The shape and striping of this pattern was inspired by the knitting pattern Find Your Fade designed by Andrea Mowry.

Edge from Every Which Way Crochet Borders by Edie Eckman.

All other aspects of this pattern are original and the intellectual property of Betty McKnit/Beth Elliott. Optimism and Halfway Home on Metro North are protected by copyright. Publishing corrections, variations, or tutorials of this pattern, online or elsewhere without written permission from the owner is a violation of copyright.

*Disclaimer* This pattern contains affiliate links.

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I’m social distancing in isolation and only have myself to model and photograph for this pattern.

 

I want you to know you’re not invisible. You matter.

If you are struggling, please reach out to a friend, relative, loved one, or a crochet group online. My group is Betty’s Besties and you are welcome to join us and reach out to me. You’re not alone. Stay connected. We’re all in this together. We will get through this.

Won’t you look cute in your zoom calls though with this on? No one has to know you’re still in your pj’s from the waist down.