6-Day Man Blanket
A variation of the classic crochet pattern the
6-Day Kid Blanket by Betty McKnit
Introduction:
This pattern is a variation of the 6-Day Kid Blanket (6DKB) and was custom-designed by request for my former landlord in New York, a very special person to me. It makes a very large adult-sized blanket. I’ve chosen the colors, stripe, size and border to appeal to a masculine or gender-neutral aesthetic, but feel free to make it for anyone, including yourself. Color has no gender, but this one is for the boys.
There are a variety of ways to alter the look of the 6DKB by changing colors on different rows. This variation is the classic original Vivid Chevrons.
I’ve created my own custom border based on ideas I found in Edie Eckman’s book “Around the Corner Crochet Borders” and “Every Which Way Crochet Borders.”
What’s the difference between this pattern and the original 6DKB?
Size – this pattern makes an extra large adult-size afghan, the original made a toddler blanket.
Yarn Weight – this pattern uses worsted weight yarn, the original used chunky weight.
Edge and Border – this pattern has instructions for an edge and a custom-designed-by-Betty border, the original only gave instructions for tassels.
Stripes: this pattern uses the same striping method as the original pattern: the sc rows to make defined stripes, or “Vivid Chevrons.”
Details:
US Terminology
Finished Size: 60” x 70” blanket
(see chart on last page for help making a blanket of a different size with a different weight of yarn)
Skill Level: Easy
Materials:
Yarn: 4250 yards of (4) worsted weight yarn.
850 yards of each of five colors.
Suggested Colors: 850 yards (5 skeins) of each of the following
Color A: Silver Grey (shown: Vanna’s Choice #860-149 – Silver Grey)
Color B: Taupe (shown in Vanna’s Choice #860-125B Taupe)
Color C: Dark Grey: (shown in Vanna’s Choice #860-151D Charcoal Grey)
Color D: Gold (shown in Vanna’s Choice #860-130 Honey)
Color E:Chocolate (shown in Vanna’s Choice #860-126 Chocolate)
Hook: Betty’s Favorite Furls Odyssey J (6 mm) hook
(make a swatch to determine the best hook for your yarn).Gauge: 12 st and 7 rows over 4” in DC
My 37 st swatch was 10” wide and 7” long
Abbreviations:
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc3tog: (NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH dec dc3tog).
Work dc3tog into one stitch – not over three stitches
[yarn over, pull up a loop, pull through two loops] 3 times. Yarn over, and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. (Be sure to pull up a loop in the same stitch every time.) dc3tog complete.
hdc: half double crochet
hhdc: herringbone half double crochet
rep: repeat
rhdc: reverse half double crochet
sc: single crochet
sk: skip
sp(s): space(s)
yo: yarn over
Special Stitches:
camel stitch: hdc in third loop
herringbone half double crochet (hhdc): yo, pull up a loop in the next st, continue pulling that same loop through the first loop on the hook, yarn over, pull through both remaining loops on the hook. hhdc complete.
picot: sc, ch 3, sc in side of sc just made. Picot complete.
reverse half double crochet: work hdc from left to right instead of right to left.
Some things to consider before you start:
Does it really only take 6 Days to make?
It’s definitely possible, but will probably take longer. This variation on the 6DKB uses the very same stitches as the original, but uses a different weight yarn and is much larger and therefore will probably take you longer than six days to make. The original toddler blanket made with chunky yarn only took six days.
First timers
If this is your first time making a 6-Day Kid Blanket, before you begin, I suggest you make a swatch on 37 chains while following along with my video tutorials on my YouTube Channel. I know you probably never swatch and will be tempted to bypass this advice, but take my word for it. The first few rows are a little tricky and you’ll sidestep common mistakes and avoid the frustration of frogging hours of hard work by swatching along with my tutorials before starting your blanket. I also have a Facebook Group and a Membership Community to help you if you get stuck.
How to Resize
This pattern creates an adult man-sized 60 x 70” throw sized blanket. If you would like make this blanket in a different size, please make a swatch, measure the swatch and use the chart at the end of this pattern as well as my 6DKB Resize Video to figure out your starting chain and yardage.
Stripe Symmetry
Remember that the blanket ends on row 4 and therefore has an extra half repeat at the top. The edge and border will not be as effective if you finish on row 7. Be aware of this as you plan your color repeats.
Side edges:
Some crocheters have had issues with the side edges of their blankets curling. Here are some steps you can take to help alleviate this:
ch 4 at the beginning of the row where the instructions say to ch 3. This is something you should try in your swatch, as some crocheters with tighter tension find that they really do need that extra stitch. Others do fine without it.
Replace the dc at the end of each or every other dc row with extended double crochet (edc)
Keep in mind when adding additional stitches on the edge you may need to skip stitches when working along the sides to get your edges to lie flat. There is no exact formula for how many sc to work into the edge. Use your judgement and lay it down often and check it as you are working.
When working the last stitch of the row, insert the hook from back to front, instead of from front to back.
Work your edge into the turning chains and sc/dc stitches on the sides of the work as described at the end of this pattern, rather than into the spaces.
Wash your blanket once it is complete, and lay it out flat to dry, gently stretching and shaping the edges.
Changing Colors:
No two 6-Day Blankets are alike. The pattern can take on many different looks depending on which rows the color changes fall on. This pattern utilizes the original 6-Day Kid Blanket striping method called Vivid Chevrons. If you would like to use this pattern variation with another striping method, please see my article “No Two 6-Day Kid Blankets are Alike” for more information about how to to alter this pattern to create a different stripe.
To change yarn on color changes, draw the new color through the last two loops of the last stitch of the row before the color change.
Creating a straight top and bottom edge:
This version creates a chevron top and bottom edge. If you would like a straight top and bottom edge, you will have to make alterations not given in this pattern. Please see my website articles “How to start your 6-Day Kid Blanket with a Straight Edge” and “6DKB Straight Start Questions Answered.” Be sure to account for extra yardage.
Begin
With Color A, ch 190
(To make your blanket larger or smaller, chain a multiple of 17 + 3)
Row 1: (RS) 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into each ch to end.
Turn
Row 2: ch 3, sk first 3 sc (the sc on the end of the row, the one below your turning chain counts as 1)
[3dc in next sc, sk next 2 sc] twice, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] into next sc
*sk next 2 sc, 3dc into next sc, sk next 2 sc, dc3tog
sk next 4 sc, dc3tog, sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, sk next 2 sc
[ 3 dc, ch3, 3 dc] into next sc; rep from * to last 9 sc
sk next 2 sc [3 dc into next sc, sk next 2 sc] twice, 1 dc into last sc.
Turn
Row 3: ch 3, sk sp between turning ch and next 3-dc group, 3 dc into each of next 2 sp
[3dc, ch3, 3dc] into next ch-3 sp
*3 dc into next sp, dc3tog into next sp
sk next sp, dc3tog into next sp, 3 dc into next sp, [3dc, ch3, 3dc] into next ch- 3 sp
rep from * to last 3 sps, 3 dc into each of next 2 sps
1 dc into sp between last 3 dc group and turning ch.
Turn
Row 4: ch 1, sc into first dc of the row (the one right below your turning chain)
sk next dc, 1 sc into each of next 8 dc
*3 sc into next ch 3 sp, 1 sc into each of next 14 sts
repeat from * to last ch-3 sp, 3 sc into last ch-3 sp
1 sc into each of next 8 dc, sk next dc, 1 sc into 3rd st of ch 3.
Turn
Change to Color B
Row 5: Ch 3, sk first 2 sc of the row below (the sc your turning chain is coming out of counts as the first one). 1 dc into each of next 8 sc
*3 dc into next sc (you should be working these into the center stitch of the 3 sc. If not, you may have skipped incorrectly in the beginning of the row.) 1 dc into each of next 7 sc
sk next 2 sc, 1 dc into each of next 7 sc
rep from * to last 11 sc, 3 dc into next sc, 1 dc into each of next 8 sc
sk next 2 sc, 1 dc into the turning chain from the row below.
Turn.
Row 6: Ch 3, sk first 2 dc in the row below (the dc below your turning chain counts as 1)
1 dc into each of next 8 dc
*3 dc into next dc (you should be working into center stitch of 3 dc)
1 dc into each of next 7 dc, sk next 2 dc, 1 dc into each of next 7 dc
rep from * to last 10 dc
3 dc into next dc, 1 dc into each of next 8 dc, sk last dc, 1 dc into 3rd st of ch 3, turn.
Change to Color C
Row 7: Ch 1, sc into first dc (the same one the turning chain is coming out of), sk 1 dc
1 sc into each dc along row to last dc
sk last dc, 1 sc into 3rd ch of ch 3, turn.
Repeat rows 2-7 seventeen times, for a total of 18 repeats of the pattern, working color changes as follows: Row 2 – 4 – Continue on Color C, Rows 5-6, Color D, Row 7 – 4, Color A. Continue colors in sequence changing to the next color on each row 7 and 5.
Repeat rows 2-4 one time more time, with color changes as before. The blanket ends on Row 4.
Fasten off. Proceed to Edge Rounds.
Edge Round 1: Join Color E in any stitch, work a row of sc around the blanket, working 3 sc into each corner and every point on the top and bottom of the blanket.
When working sc into the sides of the blanket, use the turning chains, the sc and dc stitches as foundation chains, working under 2 threads of each stitch and leaving one thread below.
There is no set rule for how many stitches you should put into the side of each stitch. If you chained 4 to turn or did edc so that your edges would not curl, you probably will have to skip some stitches periodically. Find out what works for your tension. Lay your work down often and check to make sure that your edge does not ruffle (too many stitches) or pull (too few).
Join with a sl st to the first stitch. Fasten off.
Edge Round 2: Join Color A with standing hhdc to any stitch along the side of the work.
I like to start new rounds in different places so that I don’t have a bunch of ends lines up in one area of the work. You can start anywhere on either side; pick a new place each time.
hhdc around, working 3 sts each corner and peak and sk 1 in each valley. Join w sl st to first hdc. Fasten off.
Repeat Round 2 with Color B and again with Color C.
Edge Round 3: Join Color D with standing hdc to st. Work rhdc around, skipping stitches as needed to avoid curling. Join with sl st to first hdc. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
Betty McKnit (Beth McKee Elliott) is a knitting and crochet designer and teacher. She has been crocheting and knitting since she was a little girl and enjoys making and designing simple, versatile “go-to” projects that can be adapted for different yarns and sizes. Her most well-known design is the viral crochet pattern the 6-Day Kid Blanket. She promotes creativity as a joyful process and daily knitting/crochet as a mindfulness practice.
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