6-Day Superstar Blanket

A variation of the classic crochet pattern the 

6-Day Kid Blanket by Betty McKnit

Introduction

This variation of the classic 6-Day Kid Blanket works from the center out into the shape of a fourteen-pointed star. No one can make just one 6-Day Blanket, Star Blanket, or Superstar Blanket, and with so many choices you will never get bored.

This pattern is adaptable. The blanket can be made in virtually any yarn and you can continue to grow it as big as you want it. 

Does it really only take 6 Days to make?

Yes! The name comes from the original 6-Day Kid Blanket ,which was toddler sized and made with chunky yarn, and took me an easy six days to make. This variation uses the same stitches as that original pattern, but you can use any yarn and make it any size you want. Regardless, it is a very quick make. You will love how fast it works up.

First Timers

If this is your first time making a 6-Day Blanket, and you are fairly new to crochet, it might help you  to make a swatch of the original pattern on 37 chains while following along with my video tutorials on my YouTube Channel. The video tutorials are meant to help you understand this pattern, but they are not intended to replace this pattern or be used without it.

Details
US Terminology
Skill level: Easy

If you have made a traditional 6-Day Kid Blanket, you can make this! If you have not made the traditional 6DKB, you may find this pattern easier after you do.

Gauge: You can make this blanket with pretty much any yarn, therefore gauge will vary.

Finished Size: The blanket shown is 60″ across. Your blanket may be larger or smaller if you use a different yarn. The nice thing about this pattern is that you can stop at any point or continue indefinitely. This is your blanket, make it any size you like.

Materials:

Approximate yardage for 2 common sizes and weights:

• For DK or #3 weight yarn you will need approximately 1200 yards for a 40” baby blanket and 2000 yards for a 60” throw-sized blanket.

• For Worsted or #4 weight yarn you will need approximately 1000 yards for a 40” baby blanket and 2400 yards for a 60” throw-sized blanket.

Hook: My favorite hook is the Furls Odyssey in 5.5-6mm for 3 weight and 6.5 – 7mm for 4 weight yarn.

You will need a much larger hook than you might normally use for your chose yarn weight in order to alleviate curling. I suggest starting with a hook .5-1 mm larger than the size suggested on the yarn label, and have two larger hooks on hand, .5 mm and 1 mm larger than that. Start with the smallest hook and if the points of your star begin to curl in the startup rows, increase your hook by 5 mm. 

Lay your blanket down after each round and make sure it is laying flat. It’s usually okay to increase your hook size after the first round in which you experience curling without ripping back. Check out all of these tips for yourself and lay your work down often and “admire it.”

If your work ruffles you have most likely made a mistake somewhere and added too many stitches. In my experience it is unusual to see a blanket ruffling because the hook is too big. It’s almost always because the crocheter misread the pattern and added too many stitches.

About the row numbers:

In order to provide consistency across all of the 6DKB pattern variations, I’ve numbered the rows to correspond to the original 6-Day Kid Blanket pattern. The cluster rows are always Row or Round 2 and 3, the dc rows are always Row or Round 5 and 6, and the sc rows are always Row or Round 4 and 7. This makes it easy to adapt any pattern to the Snowflake Effect, Viral Stripes, Popsicle, or the original Vivid Chevrons.

You will be guided to work the rows in the proper order; don’t let the numbers throw you off or overthink a change in the sequence. Trust the pattern, it works!

Joining the rounds:

Take care that you do not create extra stitches when you join your rounds, especially the sc rounds. See my YouTube Channel for a tutorial video guiding you to use stitch markers at the start of the sc rounds.

Changing colors:

When changing colors, fasten off the old color. Rotate the work and begin the next color with a standing stitch in a different valley.

The first 6-9 rows of this version look best when the yarn does not change colors in the middle of a row, so if you are using cake yarn, you may want to purchase an extra cake so you can cut colors for at least the first few rows. After the center is complete, mid-row color changes are not as obvious. Of course you can always change colors deliberately if you like.

Abbreviations 

6DKB: 6-Day Kid Blanket
bet: between
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dc2tog: double crochet 2 together cluster
dc3tog: double crochet 3 together cluster
rsc: reverse single crochet
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
sp(s): space or spaces
st(s): stitch(es) 

Special Stitches:

dc2tog (cluster) – this stitch is a cluster, not a decrease. It is worked as follows: yo, pull up a loop, pull through two loops, yo, pull up a loop IN THE SAME STITCH/SPACE, pull through two loops, yo and pull through all loops on the hook. dc2tog complete.

dc3tog (cluster) – this stitch is a cluster, not a decrease. It is worked as follows: yo, pull up a loop, pull through two loops, *yo, pull up a loop IN THE SAME STITCH/SPACE, pull through two loops, repeat from *, yo and pull through all loops on the hook. dc3tog complete.

Begin Pattern

With a hook .5-1 mm larger than suggested on the yarn label, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring. 

Set-up Round 1: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 13 dc into ring. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (14 dc total)

Set-up Round 2: ch 3, dc in same st. 2 dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (28 dc total)

Set-up Round 3: ch 3, dc, *ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, repeat from * ending with ch 1, join with sl st to top of ch 3. (28 dc with 7 ch 3 sps and 7 ch 1 sps)

Set-up Round 4: sl st in next dc and ch 3 sp, [ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same ch 3 sp. *dc3tog in ch 1 sp, [3 dc, ch 3, 3dc] in ch 3 sp, repeat from *, dc3tog in last ch 1 sp, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Set-up Round 5: sl st into the gap just below your hook (between the dc3tog and the 3 dc), [ch 2, dc2tog] in same sp, *[3 dc, ch 3, 3dc] in ch 3 sp, dc3tog in next 2 sps, repeat from * to last sp, dc3tog, join with sl st to top of dc cluster (be sure to join in the top of the cluster and not to the ch 2).

Set-up Round 6: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in ch 3 sps. Join with sl st to first sc (be sure to join to the top of the sc and not the sl st. You should have 4 sc on each side of the peak and 3 sc in each ch 3 sp). 

If you experience curling during the setup rounds, change to a .5 – 1 mm larger hook. Remember to lay your work down after every round and “admire it,” and while you’re admiring, check for curling.

Set-up Round 7: sl st in next st. ch 3, 3 dc, *[5 dc in center sc from row below], 4 dc, sk 2, 4 dc, repeat from *, 4 dc, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Set-up Round 8: sl st in next dc, ch 3, 4 dc, *[5 dc in center dc from row below], 5 dc, sk 2, 5 dc, repeat from *, 5 dc, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Set-up Round 9: sl st, ch 1, sc in same st, 5 sc, *3 sc in center of 5 dc from the row below, 6 sc, ch 3, sk 2 sts, 6 sc, repeat from around, ending with ch 3. Join with sl st to first sc.

Set-up Round 10: sl st in the next 4 st, ch 2, dc2tog cluster in same st, *sk 2, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in center sc from row below, sk 2, dc3tog, sk 4, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, sk 4, dc3tog in next st, repeat from * around, ending with [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, Join with sl st to top of starting dc2tog (make sure to join into the top of the dc2tog, and not into the ch2).

Set-up Round 11: sl st into sp bet dc2tog and 3dc, ch 2, dc2tog in same sp, *[3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, dc3tog in next 2 sps (one before and one after the dc3tog in the row below), repeat from * around ending with dc3tog in the last sp, join with sl st to first dc2tog (make sure to join into the top of the dc2tog, and not into the ch2).

Proceed to Round 4.

In order to make the row numbers correspond to the original 6-Day Kid Blanket row numbers, we are calling the next row Round 4. Don’t let the change in sequence throw you off. Proceed from Setup Round 11 to Round 4.

Round 4: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in ch 3 sps.  Join w sl st to first sc (make sure to join into the top of the sc, and not into the sl st or ch 1. You should have 8 (14, 20, 26…  sc between the 3 sc peaks).

On subsequent sc rounds, the number of scs between the peaks will increase by 6. The numbers in parenthesis show the number of scs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern.

Round 5: sl st in next st. Ch 3, 3 (6, 9, 12, etc.) dc, *[5 dc in center sc from row below], 4 (7, 10, 13, etc.) dc, sk 2, 4 dc, repeat from *, 4 (7, 10, 13, etc.) dc, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 6: sl st in next st. Ch 3, 4 (7, 10, 13, etc.) dc, *[5 dc in center dc from row below], 5 (8, 11, 14, etc.) dc, sk 2, 5 (8, 11, 14, etc.) dc, repeat from *, 5 dc, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

On subsequent rounds 5 and 6, the number of dcs on either side of the mountain will increase by 3. The numbers in parenthesis show the number of dcs on each subsequent repeat of the pattern.

Round 7: ch 1, sc in same st and each st around, making 2 sc in each center of 5 dc from the row below. (Since we are working on all right sides and not turning, the top of the center dc is above and slightly to the right of the center stitch). Join with sl st to first sc (make sure to join into the top of the sc, and not into the sl st or ch 1. You should have 14 (20, 26, 32 sc between the 2 sc  peaks).

Round 2: ch 2, dc2tog cluster in same st, *sk 4, 3 dc in next st, **[sk 2, 3 dc in next st], repeat from ** to top of the mountain, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in second of 2 sc from row below, ***[sk 2, 3 dc in next st], repeat from *** to 5th stitch before the valley, making last 3dc in the fifth sc from the valley, sk 4, dc3tog in the center valley st, repeat from *, Join with sl st to top of starting dc2tog.

Round 3: sl st in next sp, ch 2, dc2tog in same sp, *3 dc in next sp, repeat from * to top of the mountain, [3dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in ch 3 sp, **3 dc in next sp, repeat to the valley, dc3tog in sps before and after the dc3tog in the row below, repeat from *, join with sl st to first dc2tog (be sure to sl st into the top of the dc2tog and not into the ch).

Repeat Rounds (4, 5, 6, 7, 2, 3) in that order approximately 3 times for baby blanket size, and 5 times for a throw size. Finish with round 4 once more. Continue to Finishing.

Finishing

Work a round of rsc to edge the blanket, skipping one stitch every 4-5 stitches if your blanket edge ripples.

Alternate Edge (shown below):

Work Pattern #101 from Around the Corner Crochet Borders by Edie Eckman.

After the last row of the edge pattern is complete, work a round of sc in each stitch, with sc, picot, sc in each ch sp on the points.

Join us in the 6-Day Kid Blanket Facebook Group for help with this pattern and to show off your finished creations. Be sure to tag @bettymcknit in your social media posts

Video tutorials available on my YouTube Channel.

                                             

This pattern contains affiliate links. If you click these links and buy something on the page they take you to, I may, at no additional cost to you, earn a commission. I only affiliate with products and companies I feel good about. Thank you for your support!

Items created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale with credit to Betty McKnit in your listing. 

Be sure to tag @bettymcknit in your social media posts so I can enjoy your beautiful creations.

This pattern is 100% original and the intellectual property of Betty McKnit/Beth Elliott. This pattern, The 6-Day Kid Blanket, “6DKB,” 6-Day Star Blanket, and derivative works are protected by copyright. Publishing translations, corrections, variations, or tutorials of this pattern, online or elsewhere without written permission from the owner is a violation of copyright.

Edge Adapted from Edie Eckman’s book “Around the Corner Crochet Borders”

The stitch pattern is “Vivid Chevrons” #110 from 200 Ripple Stitch Patterns by Jan Eaton.
Reprinted with permission from Quarto Publishing. 

Tested by Marianne Killackey